There’s something special about the Flinders Rangers
A feeling that every visit reveals a little more of its story, stitched into the red dust and rising cliffs. This place just breathes with sacred energy and a magic you can just reach out and touch.
This time, our family journey took us from the familiar heart of the Flinders through to the remote beauty of the Gammon Ranges, and every step of the way was filled with learning, connection, and the kind of slow, joyful living that leaves a mark ( and trust me you'll be finding dust through everything you take for a good while after too!)
Our first stop was Blinman, staying at a place called "Onya" — a rustic little gem tucked into the landscape. We set up a camp site just along side a dry creek bed where we saw emu families and healthy looking kangaroos walk past often!
Blinman is a historic mining town — small in size, but rich with the stories of generations who worked the rugged land in copper mines. 'This rural and remote town is the highest town in South Australia. Gaining its name from when Copper was discovered by a shepherd named Robert Blinman in 1859, it is packed with history. At its peak, the population of Blinman was over 1500, but today is less than 50'
Of course we had to check out the Blinman Mines with the kids — wandering through tunnels carved by hand, The tour was great! and the guides really captured the transformation of imagining the lives of those who came here seeking fortune. digging for their livelihoods and even explained some superstitions!
The history felt alive, especially through the eyes of our little ones! It was a great experience and one I highly recommend if you visit the area!
Another of the highlights of Blinman was visiting Kristian and his family at "Wadna" — a First Nations artist and a deeply rooted storyteller of the land showcasing Adnyamathanha art including hand-carved artefacts, jewellery and painting
We spent time at their place learning, listening, and sharing conversations that went far beyond art, reaching into culture, respect for Country, and the deep, enduring spirit of the ranges.
Kristian’s warmth, generosity, and knowledge were truly a gift we will always remember, We will be back!
Blinman Pub — we had lunch here and enjoyed the outside sunshine!
From Blinman, we moved deeper into the ranges, camping at Grindell's Hut Campground — a beautiful, "lost in time" spot where I set up to do a plein air painting under the ever-changing light.
I took a smaller easel and smaller canvas this time! but, Time slipped away as I worked ( and the flies where absolutely having a field day!) and as the sunset washed the land in golds and deep purples, I knew I’d have to finish the piece back in the studio.
The unfinished painting feels like a memory itself — a reminder that art, like travel, is sometimes about what we carry back with us to finish later.
Next stop: Arkaroola.
The boys got lucky with an experience of the star-gazing observatory setup, a gateway to a sky bigger and wilder than any we see at home.
We let the kids loose in the swimming pool during the afternoon which would have been 10 degrees :( , and visited the wallaby feeding area where the kids watched, wide-eyed, as shy rock wallabies crept out of the boulders.
We hooked back west to Copley, through the beautiful Italowie gorge,
Then, heading South through Leigh Creek to Nilpena Ediacara. 10 ks North of Parachilna, where we explored the ancient fossil fields a tour fantastically run by the national parks SA. We were lucky enough to take an incredible guided tour, stepping through deep time, seeing the marks left by lifeforms half a billion years ago.
The fossils where beautifully and perfectly preserved! and it was such an amazing thing to witness such ancient organisms.
On our way home, we set up camp in a small caravan park out the back of the iconic Cradock Pub.
This family run and owned pub has some of the best service around, and the playground entertained the kids for hours!
The next morning, we rose early to attend the ANZAC Day Dawn Service which hosted quit a few locals! it was a deeply moving ceremony under a still, cool sky.
I have to mention we camped here for the price of a beer!! almost like a handshake between travellers and hosts, an unspoken pact of respect and gratitude. and it was great! camping there also opened to use the hot showers and toilets from the hotel and it was fantastic. Such a great way to end our trip
A special note must go to the Flinders food co , In the main strip of Hawker where we stopped for a meal that still lingers in memory. Hearty, fresh, absolutely delicious food, the crew there do a fantastic job!
Country cafes are a cornerstone of these journeys, offering more than food, a kind smile, a place to pause, a little taste of home.
Every time we visit the Flinders, it feels like the land teaches us something new.
Something about history, about connection, about living more slowly and noticing more deeply.
This trip stitched another story into our family's memory, dust, flies and stars, of ancient ground, ancient life and kind people, of paintings half-finished and experiences completely unforgettable.
We can't wait to return again.
Jess & fam x